Buttermilk Christmas cookies. Photograph: Kristin Perers for Observer Food Monthly My grandma Ptak, who lived in the heart of Illinois, would make no less than a dozen varieties of cookies every Christmas for giving out as gifts. Chocolate crinkles, plantation creams, peanut butter balls, Toll House chocolate chip cookies, kolackies, red and green anise candy, gingerbread men, the list goes on. She had five sons and they all had their favourites. When my father moved to California she still sent them by post every year in a gigantic box. My father carried on the tradition and made his favourite, the apricot and walnut-filled cream cheese kolacky, the sole cultural link to our Polish...
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