A little of what you fancy: apple shallot tarts. Photograph: Jonathan Lovekin for the Observer Many of winter’s most welcome savoury recipes come with fruit either in them or on the side. Scarlet cranberry sauce smeared on slices of roast turkey at Christmas; baked apples, white and fluffy, with roast goose; plumped-up prunes in a lamb tagine or preserved lingonberries to mash into the gravy of your Swedish meatballs. Even a country pub’s ploughman’s lunch comes with an apple to crunch as we warm ourselves around the open fire. Rotkohl is not only German for red cabbage but is also the name of a sweet-and-sour dish of cabbage and apple as old as the hills and most often eaten when there’s...
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