Listen and learn: My Sichuan, located in the Old School building in Oxford. Photograph: Sam Frost for the Observer The Old School, Gloucester Green, Oxford (01865 236 899). Meal for two: £50-80 Some dishes don’t so much speak to you as holler. They make a case for themselves just by sitting there being brown and crisp and hyper-spiced and brazen. So it is with the lamb ribs with cumin at My Sichuan in Oxford. This one dish is enough to have me battering away at the National Rail app, calculating journey and eating times, and wondering whether I could do the round trip by myself without anyone noticing my absence. A plate of the lamb ribs, with some of their glossy, jade-green vegetables to...
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