Green lights: mild and creamy coriander lamb. Photograph: Jonathan Lovekin for the Observer It was one of those late-summer days of parched soil, piercing skies and ugly light that makes you squint. The garden was on its knees praying for rain. I am using up the basil that has been living in a pot on the kitchen steps. There are only so many times a tender plant can withstand the yo-yo existence of extreme pampering and utter neglect. It is also time to use the coriander before it goes to seed. The stems of fine herbs – dill, basil and especially coriander – can hold almost as much flavour as their leaves and fronds. Any of these fragile, soft-stemmed herbs can be processed to a paste...
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