Empty promise: Suchef’s glossy interior. Photograph: Sophia Evans for the Observer 5 Dean’s Court, London EC4 (020 7332 0858). Meal for two £20 A weekday lunchtime and I’m alone at the counter in the window of a new “healthy fast-food” concept. Oh sure, there’s always a queue of volunteers to join me for the hip dirty Italian in Hackney, or the hyper-delicious Japanese in Bayswater. But when new formats that could be coming to a high street near you very soon need checking out, not so much. Mind you, I’m grateful. I survey the quarter-eaten cardboard pots of stuff on a tray in front of me, which constitutes most of the hot menu at Suchef, and give thanks nobody wanted to join me. I’d...
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