Most people who visit Sai Kung for a bite head straight for the waterfront strip of seafood restaurants. Locals, however, tend to regard those places as tourist traps, and the frequency with which tour buses block the roads in the area lends credence to that view. In recent years, a lively dining scene catering to varied tastes has grown up in the area just behind them. If you are seeking something spicier than steamed grouper, take a stroll through the narrow alleys of Sai Kung's old town, just off the car park next to the Tin Hau Temple, to Hoi Pong Street. Ban Thai (tel: 2882 9189), which opened a year ago at 5 Hoi Pong Street, is notable for reliable food and friendly service, but AJ's...
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